The Gnawa Lila ritual is a profound and captivating tradition that takes participants deep into the...
Immerse yourself
in the authentic cultural tapestry of Fez by exploring the historic and enchanting traditions surrounding Bab Guissa. Nestled against the city’s ancient ramparts, this area comes alive every evening between the afternoon prayer and sunset, as it once did daily, with the mesmerizing tales of Moroccan storytellers known as "Cheikhs."
The Timeless Art of Moroccan Storytelling
For generations, the slopes near Bab Guissa have been a gathering place for devoted audiences who came to hear the "Cheikhs" recount epic tales and heroic sagas. These storytellers, standing among the gravestones, would narrate the legendary exploits of "El Antaria" and the bloody histories of "El Ismaïnia." The narratives, deeply rooted in Moroccan cultural heritage, captivated the listeners, mostly men from local workshops and trades.
The Cheikhs and Their Captivating Narratives
The Cheikhs, often referred to as "fdawi" or "fdawa," were revered for their ability to vividly recount stories of ancient Arab warriors, known as "ghzawat." Accompanied by the rhythmic beat of a square tambourine (deff), they would transport their audiences back to the times of grand battles and daring feats. Despite the familiarity of these stories, the listeners would enthusiastically correct and prompt the narrators, demonstrating a communal passion for these age-old tales.
Epic Legends and Oral Traditions
Among the most cherished tales were those of "El Antaria," a pre-Islamic poetic hero symbolizing the virtues of desert warriors. According to Clement Huart in "Littérature arabe," Antara, the son of Cheddad, became an emblem of chivalric qualities. Similarly, the story of "El Ismaïnia," detailing the Ismaelian sect and their mountain sheikh, was preserved through oral tradition, with each Cheikh adding their unique touch to the narrative.
An Evening with Ba Dris el-Fadwi
The most renowned of these storytellers was Ba Dris el-Fadwi, who enchanted audiences with three major tales over periods spanning from four months to a year. His repertoire included the year-long epic of Antar, the six-month saga of the Ismaelians, and the four-month marvels of Saïf Dhou 'l-Yasal, akin to the stories from "One Thousand and One Nights." Ba Dris, a babouchier by trade, brought these stories to life with exceptional talent, despite being unable to read or write.
A Historical Encounter with Louis Jouvet
In 1945, the renowned French actor Louis Jouvet spent two weeks in Fez, during which he was captivated by the Cheikhs of Bab Guissa. Residing at the Palais Jamaï, Jouvet was enchanted by the evocative performances of the storytellers, drawing parallels between their art and the origins of theatre itself.
A Vanished Tradition
Though the storytellers and the once vibrant bird market near Bab Guissa have faded into history, the legacy of their tales remains embedded in the cultural memory of Fez. Today, only the ancient ramparts and the setting sun witness the echoes of this once-thriving tradition.
Experience Fez's Rich Heritage
For those seeking an authentic Moroccan experience, exploring the historic narratives and traditions of Bab Guissa offers a unique glimpse into the soul of Fez. As you walk the same paths that once resonated with epic tales and communal gatherings, you become part of a living heritage that continues to inspire and captivate.
