Exploring Moroccan Silk: A Journey into Fès Traditional Belts

In December 2019, I was fortunate enough to acquire a rare and exquisite work, *Soieries marocaines, les ceintures de Fès*, published by Albert Levy with an introduction by Lucien Vogel. The book, likely from the 1920s, features fifty colored plates showcasing the intricate and vibrant art of Moroccan silk belts, specifically from Fès—a city known for its deep cultural and artisanal heritage.

This collection captures a moment in time when the artistic richness of Moroccan craftsmanship was gaining recognition, largely thanks to the work of the Protectorate’s Directorate of Fine Arts. The Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris played a crucial role in showcasing the profound beauty of Moroccan decor to a broader audience, bringing into focus the significance of these cultural artifacts.

The art of belt-making in Fès is particularly striking. These belts, traditionally worn by women over their caftans during festive occasions, are not only functional but also bear the weight of centuries of tradition. Crafted on ancient looms known as “métiers de basse lice,” the technique used to weave these belts harks back to a time before Jacquard’s mechanical loom revolutionized textile production in Europe. The process is both manual and collaborative, requiring two artisans to operate the loom with precision, pulling various strings to bring the intricate designs to life.

The evolution of these belts tells a fascinating story. Older belts, narrow and supple, were relatively modest in color and design—typically featuring simple geometric patterns reminiscent of Byzantine art. Over time, however, the belts grew wider and more rigid, symbolizing a shift in both aesthetic preferences and societal expectations. The patterns became more complex, the use of gold threads more pronounced, and a curious dyeing technique emerged, allowing artisans to create variations in design and color without altering the weaving pattern.

What’s perhaps most intriguing is the historical mystery surrounding this craft. Unlike the broader textile industry in Morocco, which saw a decline due to competition from imported Lyonnais fabrics, these belts from Fès survived and thrived. Some scholars, like Mme Réveillaud, suggest that this craft was once part of a much larger textile tradition in Fès, one that produced not only belts but also the fabrics for caftans and wall hangings. Yet, as with many artisanal practices, much of this history remains shrouded in mystery.

The belts of Fès are not just items of fashion; they are symbols of a city deeply connected to its past yet constantly evolving through its encounters with other cultures. From Byzantine motifs to Persian influences, the designs of these belts reflect the rich tapestry of cultural exchange that has shaped Morocco for centuries.

The story of these silk belts is one of resilience, adaptation, and a deep connection to place. It reminds us of the importance of preserving such crafts—not just as relics of the past, but as living expressions of cultural identity and artistic mastery. Today, these belts continue to inspire, serving as a bridge between the past and the present, between tradition and innovation.